At a glance, you might have thought I was on spring break. Twelve empty shot glasses and picked-over bowls of chapulines sat strewn before me on the bar, along with enough bottles to send a kegger’s worth of coeds under the table. But this was no Cuervo-soaked bacchanalia — it was the Agave Experience at Montage Los Cabos, a tasting more akin to a Bordeaux cellar visit than an MTV special. I am no spring breaker, and this is not the Cabo you once knew.

Los Cabos — a catch-all name for the neighboring towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo — has earned a reputation as a place full of wealthy Angelenos and college kids, less a Mexican destination than an Americanized resort getaway. And that’s true, to an extent. You can pay cabbies in dollars, speak English in most places, and even make a Costco run, if you insist. In parts of Cabo San Lucas, the party rages on, and no strip of sand is without a bikini-clad would-be influencer posing for pictures. But new hotels are setting themselves apart with upscale amenities, a deeper appreciation of local culture, and locations far from party central.